Bingo Airsoftworks HPA Engine Review, Part 2 of 3 – Wolverine SMP

Bingo Airsoftworks HPA Engine Review, Part 2 of 3 – Wolverine SMP


(mechanical press slamming) (techno music) – I’m going to talk
about the Wolverine SMP. Wolverine SMP, stands
for ‘single moving part’ based on the fact that
it only has, really, one moving part, which
would be the solenoid, or single solenoid, but
actually, there’s two, the nozzle moves and the
solenoid actually triggers, so I guess the ‘single
moving part’ is the nozzle. It’s a much smaller engine
than the one I showed previously, the Polarstar Fusion Engine, because its primary design is to be a drop-in into an existing gear box. You’ll take the gear box
from an existing gun, replace the cylinder with this
engine, and re-install it. There are quite a few
advantages by doing that. I’ll cover all the
advantages and disadvantages in my opinion on the Wolverine SMP. It’s a simple design,
it has far fewer parts. You’ll notice it’s very
small, not much to this but a front cylinder
which contains the nozzle, and then it has the rear part, which contains the main solenoid. It’s a direct fire through the solenoid, so the air that goes
out the nozzle travels through this larger solenoid back here. But again, it’s very simple. If you take this thing apart,
you actually only have a couple of screws and it’s disassembled. You have the front banjo
valve, here, that controls the nozzle staying back, and then you have a couple of set screws on the side, and the outer cylinder comes
off and the nozzle comes out. Then you just have the rear part here, and when you unscrew this, which is the main solenoid, that’s it. Four parts, essentially,
that make up the engine. So an advantage of this,
it’s far fewer parts. It makes it very simple to
clean and maintain that way. It’s potentially more air-efficient. I haven’t verified this yet myself, but there’s a lot of empirical evidence from other folks who have fielded the SMP a lot longer, that they’re getting quite a few more shots per tank. I think that’s certainly true
with the lower velocities since it’s operating psi range goes as low as 40 psi all the way up to 120 psi. Certainly, at 40 psi, you’re going to get a lot more efficient air usage since there is only one solenoid. You don’t have extra air
going to the other solenoids. It’s naturally limited
by the internal workings of the solenoid of how much air actually flows through per shot. So, it can be very efficient. Some are reporting, twice as efficient. Again, this is my opinion
piece, I haven’t tried it yet. I believe it will be more efficient, but I haven’t had a chance to go out and empirically demonstrate
this for myself. So that is an advantage for this. Because it’s a cylinder-based replacement, another advantage is: it’s
designed to fit in, basically, any gun that uses a standard cylinder with a centered nozzle, so it
doesn’t have to be just a V2. In fact, the same engine
works in a V3 or in many different guns that don’t
use standard V2 gear boxes, for example, the 417 or the
XCR, or some of the other guns where they’ve made some tweaks to the way their engines are put together. This will fit, for the most part, in the cylinder portion of those gear boxes. So it’s very flexible in its
installation capabilities. You can wire this forward
or rearward, based on the gear box shell that you install it in. Since it doesn’t have a gear box, the wiring harness that comes with it, can be wired in whatever direction makes sense for what the gear box allows. I’ll talk about that a
little bit more as well. It is a rear-biased nozzle. Let me explain what that means. Having a rear-bias nozzle means, when this engine is at
rest, I’m just going to reassemble it here while I’m talking, while this engine is at
rest, the nozzle stays retracted, fully back into the engine. When it fires, the nozzle goes forward, shoots out the air and
then retracts again, which chambers another round. So this rear-bias is an advantage, and it can also be a disadvantage. It’s an advantage for
some guns, especially the scissor guns like the
SCAR gun or the G36 guns, where the lower pulls away from the upper. Because the nozzle’s
always completely back, the nozzle isn’t embedded in the hop-up, so it doesn’t lock itself in place. So, that’s an advantage, its rear-bias. I’m going to talk about some
of the potential problems by having a rear-bias as well,
when I get to the disadvantages, but for some guns, that
works out very nicely. It’s very simple to adjust. That’s part of the claim of
this engine, it’s simple. There are only two settings
you can control using its FCU circuit, just the ‘nozzle
dwell’ and the ‘rate of fire’. The ‘rate of fire’ is just
the delay between shots. The ‘nozzle dwell’
essentially controls how long this solenoid is energized,
which determines how much air needs to get pushed through
here to make it function. You’re going to end up adjusting the nozzle dwell to match your input psi. Generally, at a lower psi, you might need to have a slightly higher nozzle dwell to compensate and allow the nozzle to move fully forward and shoot the air out. So, it’s very simple. The FCU itself is actually much smaller than a PolarStar FCU. I’m going to show you one
here which is a test FCU. You can see the size difference. It’s a lot smaller, which helps it fit inside buffer tubes much easier. This fits in there very
easily without any binding. The small FCU is definitely an advantage. It doesn’t drain the battery, as well. Because there’s no display on this FCU, and I’ll talk about how you
adjust this in a second, because this FCU doesn’t
have a display, you can leave the battery plugged in to
this almost indefinitely. As long as it’s not being
used, it’s not drawing any power, and you don’t
have to worry about killing your Lipo battery if
you leave it attached overnight like you would get with a PolarStar FCU. Again, I personally
always remove the battery even if it doesn’t drain it,
but it’s just good to know if you forget, and everyone’s
done it at least once, you forget to unplug the
battery, it’ll still be good. What’s also nice, is
the Wolverine SMP comes with a 500 milliamp hour battery with the engine, so that’s also a plus. You already have it ready to go. You’ve got a battery, a
battery that will fit inside a buffer tube very easily
along with the FCU. Very nice. Let me go over some of the potential disadvantages of the Wolverine SMP. Like the PolarStar engine,
it uses a wire harness to connect the fire control
unit to the SMP engine. Same problem here, these wire harnesses can be pretty fragile. This uses a different
connector system than the PolarStar engine, but at the
same time, you still have the problem that something
can wear out, break. You have to be careful
with you wiring harnesses, so this can be seen as
a liability as well. In my opinion, the installation
of an SMP is actually more complex than, say,
the PolarStar engine because what you have to
do to install it, is you have to take out the existing
gear box, open it up, and, in this case, there’s
10 screws or so that you have to open up to get the gear box apart. You then have to take out all the gears, clean out all the grease,
which is kind of a pain, and then you can install the engine. Now, once you’ve got it all
taken apart and cleaned out, the installation is actually
pretty straight-forward. You replace the cylinder, it
comes with a trigger board that replaces the trigger mechanism. Just install that and you’re good to go, just install the trigger and so forth. But again, it’s honestly more of a pain. You have to clean out the
grease, it’s not good to leave all that extra gunk that’s inside here. Also, anytime you need to
get access to the engine to lubricate the nozzle,
it requires you to open up the gear box shell, so there’s
a little bit of extra work. Frankly, you have to
take the whole gear box out of the gun, you have
to unscrew all the screws that hold the gear box shell in place, and you have the trigger which is on its own spring, sometimes pops out. So you’ve got to play,
those who are familiar with working with AEG gear boxes, you have to play the
little, hold all the parts in place while you re-assemble it. It’s certainly much easier
without the larger spring, but once it’s all together, it’s
probably not that difficult. It’s not just
pull-out-a-gear-box-and-drop-one-in. It uses the existing gear box. Now, again, that’s an
advantage in that you don’t often have alignment or shimming issues because you’re using the
gear box that’s native to the gun that you’re replacing as long as you stick
with the same gear box. If it was working as an
AEG, it should work fine as an SMP because everything is designed as one part: gear box belongs to the gun. There are some disadvantages,
again, to that, too. Not all gear box shells are made the same. Unfortunately, because
it works as a cylinder, different thicknesses in
the front of the gear box, or different reinforcements
within the gear box, can cause problems for how
all this fits inside of here. So, you have to be aware
that, while the gear box shell itself is designed for the
gun, the gear box shell has variations that may cause problems for the installation of the SMP. So, just keep that in mind. Not all gear box shells are created equal. Additionally, a lot of
gear boxes on some guns have different trigger mechanisms. They aren’t using a
standard V2 trigger setup. They’ll use a micro-switch or they’ll use some other mechanism, so as soon as you go away from anything that follows a standard V2 trigger, you’re now forced to do something to wire the trigger switch directly to the wire harness, or you can use a circuit board like I’ve developed for helping the install of these things. So, again, advantages and disadvantages you have to be aware of
if you’ve got a really odd gear box, Aries in particular,
you still have to do some custom work to get this installed. The maintenance of it, I
think, is actually a little bit more difficult because
you have to take apart the gear box to get at the nozzle. There are other modifications
that are being developed that allow to not have to
do that, but that requires cutting the gear box
shell and I don’t think the average user’s going
to want to be able to do that or be able to do
that, so keep that in mind. Some of the other interesting things… The current, or the
iteration, I’m showing here uses barbed fittings for the air line. It’s designed this way
to be more compatible with different gear box shells because there’s very limited room for this air line to pass, so it
has barbed fittings here. Unfortunately, with a barbed fitting, if you ever need to replace this air line, it’s extremely difficult to
get it off this barbed fitting. In fact, you have to cut it off. You can’t pull this thing off of there, so maintaining this air
line is very difficult. Now, I know Wolverine
has made an improvement to their fitting, where I don’t believe they’re using an elbow anymore. It’s a softer air line
that has a mesh wrap like this around it,
and I think it’s still attached by a barbed
fitting up here, but it allows you to be more flexible
so you can actually… Because this is already pointing downward meant it’s supposed to go out the grip. You can do the MilSim
type of thing by having it go out the back of the gear box without you moving this elbow. Another point about that MilSim fitting, if you want the air
line to go out the back, most gear box shells
aren’t designed for that, so you’re forced to actually have to make a modification and make a
cut, so be aware of that. A lot of gear boxes
aren’t designed to handle even this large wire harness out the back of the engine, so even
on this generic shell that I have here, in
order for the wire harness to go out the back, it gets pinched right back here on the gear box shell. So, it would be appropriate to cut away some of the metal here to
allow this wire harness to go more easily out the back, or you sort of have to snake
it in the same pathway as the motor wires, and
they were much smaller, so you just have to be
aware of those kinds of issues when you do the install on this. I think I mentioned earlier
about the rear-bias nozzle. The rear-bias nozzle, which is a function of the simplicity of the engine. It doesn’t have a poppet
and a nozzle solenoid. It has one solenoid which just
is used to control the air. The nozzle’s always sitting back. What that means is, when
this is in a hop-up, there’s always BBs sitting
in front of this nozzle, and there’s, technically,
nothing but the bucking that prevents BBs from
going into the hop-up. So if your bucking is poor,
sometimes the feed pressure from your magazine can push multiple BBs into the hop-up, and what
that means is you need to probably change your
bucking to something with a smaller opening on it to help prevent BBs from feeding into the hop-up. The other unfortunate thing
with a rear-bias nozzle, is it’s very difficult
to check for air seal because it’s always sitting on the back. You can manually push it
forward and then put your hop-up against it, but
any bumping of that can actually push it out of place. So, because it’s all
the way back, air seal is a little bit harder to test. That’s unfortunate, but
usually the nozzle will be okay with the hop-up that you’re
working with if you get it for what it’s designed for, like a V2 will work with an N4-based gun. Back to the FCU. I mentioned it’s very nice
and small and fits in the buffer tube, but unfortunately,
the way you adjust the FCU is through these little analog control dials on here. There’s one for the DN and
one for the rate of fire. And Wolverine conveniently includes a tool for you to be
able to adjust the little dial settings on here, and that’s nice. Again, it’s very small. If you get it set the way you need to, then you don’t have to mess with it, but adjusting this is
actually very difficult to get very precise adjustments because it’s hard to know exactly what any amount of turn on
the analog dial actually relates to as in what
effect it has on the engine other than it either
increases or decreases it. But again, you’re dealing
with an analog control here. You need to use a little tiny screwdriver and you have to be very
precise on your adjustments if you want to get it right
to the edge of performance. You can obviously make
very gross adjustments and just leave it and be good. One of the things, though,
with the rate of fire, as you adjust this dial
for the rate of fire, there’s really no way to know what your rate of fire is without going to a chrono and actually firing BBs
through it so it counts it. There’s other techniques,
but you can’t tell. You just sort of have to guess that you’re at the right rate of fire. I kind of consider that a disadvantage in that you, one, have
to have a tool handy and, two, it’s very imprecise
on how you adjust this. The way you adjust the burst mode on this is by using the trigger. There’s a little LED light
that lights up on here and you plug in the
battery while holding the trigger and then you
can actually determine your burst modes using
various trigger counts. Also, one other issue about the FCU, is there are solar ports on here to allow this FCU to control a box mag. Whenever the trigger is
pulled, this port goes active which allows you
to turn on a box mag or a flashlight or something else. Unfortunately, it’s under the heat shrink and in order to use it, you have to cut the heat shrink off,
solder a connector to it, and then probably
re-apply the heat shrink. On the PolarStar FCU, for
example, they have an extra port mounted right on the
board where you can plug in a connector for that same functionality. They call it the GPIO port,
or General Purpose IO. On here, I believe it’s called the mag button, or something like that. Not every gun uses that,
but if you want to put this into a SAW, and you want to
hook it up with a box mag, you’re going to have to solder
things directly to the FCU. Also, there isn’t a mode for switching ‘semi’ and ‘full auto’, so, again, if you’re putting this into a
gun that’s always full auto, like a SAW, you actually have to force the full auto switch to be closed, and you can do that
through a variety of ways. You wouldn’t be using
this trigger board anyway, but that’s just things to be aware of. And its intended native design to work in just V2s, so you don’t have to worry about a lot of those problems,
but I’m just pointing out, as you start putting these
in different platforms, because it’s designed
to work as a cylinder replacement for different
platforms, you may have to overcome some of these things like wiring up the trigger or
wiring up the full auto if it doesn’t use a standard V2. So, be aware of that when
you’re doing various installs of this and it’s not, again,
the standard platform for it. The design of the engine also has a natural limit on its max fps. Because the air is travelling
through this solenoid, I don’t believe you can get
up to 700 fps with the SMP. Not many people want
to get that hot anyway, so that’s perfectly fine,
but it has a natural limit. You go up to 120 psi. There are no different nozzle diameters. Your fps is controlled
entirely by your input psi, so your fps is what it
is, based on your psi. You shoot it at 80 psi, at
40 psi, whatever the fps, that’s what you’re going to get with your barrel and hop-up combination. When you get up to the top end of this, at the 120 psi, that’s your max fps. Unless you start creeping
up on your input psi, you’re not going to be able
to get any higher than that, and again, it’s naturally
limited by the air going through this main solenoid. The max fps on this is somewhere up to, I think, it’s around, 500 fps. Again, it depends on your
barrel, because the barrel length and diameter has
a big effect on that. But again, that will cover
the majority of all guns and fps ranges that people need to use. It shouldn’t necessarily be a problem, but you should be aware of that. If you want to be a
sniper shooting 650 fps, the SMP may not be what
you’re going to need because the flow just won’t support that. Alright, I think that’s about it. I just wanted to point out, again, it could be much more efficient. I mean, its real, real big point here, is this could be a lot more efficient. So, those who don’t
have easy access to air, you could probably use an SMP on a tank and get quite a few more
shots than what you would get with some of the other
engines, so be aware of that. It’s a cool little thing. I do a lot of custom installs for using the PolarStar into various
guns, and some guns take pretty extreme
modifications to install it, like the 417 or PSG or
something like that. This installs much easier
into those because it doesn’t require any cutting of the gear box shell. The existing shell can
work, you can install this. For things like the PTS
Masada, the 417, the PSG, I recommend the Wolverine
as a better drop-in. It’s much easier to put
in there: you just get the right length nozzle and you’re good to go. Just be aware of some of the
advantages and disadvantages. It’s also the least expensive
engine out on the market. Of the three I’m reviewing,
this costs the least amount. And it comes with a battery, which is really cool, so be aware of that also. Next up, I’m going to
talk about the Vulcan V12.